Delhi is multifaceted metropolis, thick with historic remains that tell of the rise and fall of empires, while humanity in all its guises surges through it. From monuments on roundabouts to mega malls, it continues to expand in all directions. Modern Delhi is a city of extremes and will leave its mark on the visitor.
In addition to local guided walks and visiting some distinct neighbourhoods and important sites, we will travel by metro, cab, rickshaws and foot to explore some of my favourite haunts. From a bustling kebab joint famous with locals and the green relief of monument strewn gardens, to the tumultuous charm of the old city, you will explore new and old Delhi.

We catch the train in the morning and arrive in Agra around lunch time – home to the Taj Mahal ‘a tear drop on the cheek of eternity’ in the words of the great poet Rabindranath Tagore. We will visit the Taj that afternoon/evening.  

We get picked up from our homestay after breakfast and head to Bharatpur. On our way, we visit the immaculately preserved ghost town Fatephur Sikri, in all its red sandstone splendour, a former capital of the Mughal Empire constructed by Emperor Akbar. We continue our journey to the UNESCO listed Keoladeo Ghana National Park in Bharatpur, where a thriving system of fresh water marshes attracts large and diverse range of migratory birds.  

After breakfast, we continue to Amer. En route, we will stop at the famous Abhaneri Step Well – a feat of water engineering. Rajasthan is known for its rich artisan traditions – from paper-making to jewellery. While in Amer you will experience some of this culture: there is a visit to the Anokhi Hand Printing Museum and a local artisan in their studio. There is also the opportunity for leisurely walks and exploring the old village of Amer. And we will take in the views with a visit to the Amer Fort. Overall, this is time to take it easy, with a gentle pace of exploration.  

We head off the well-trodden path to spend two nights in Karauli, where we stay in palace constructed in 1937, which is an amazing experience in itself. The royal family still lives in part of it, though they are not always in residence. Filled with mahogany furniture, rich textiles, family portraits, and a distinctly art deco feel – this is a step back in time. Staff take us for a walk through the village to visit to the city palace, where the family used to live. This heritage monument is under restoration, and is far removed from the madding crowd.  

We get picked up from our homestay after breakfast and head to Bharatpur. On our way, we visit the immaculately preserved ghost town Fatephur Sikri, in all its red sandstone We are picked up after breakfast and drive through to the Pink City of Jaipur – India’s first planned city. This bazaar city is the capital of the colourful desert state of Rajasthan, and it is known for shopping. Leather makers, jewellery, semi-precious stones, weavers – artisans and handicrafts of all sorts are found here, a tradition that dates back to the maharajas. There will be a local guided tour of Jaipur’s artisan markets, time to admire the distinct Hawa Mahal and visit Jai Singh’s extraordinary observatory., a former capital of the Mughal Empire constructed by Emperor Akbar. We continue our journey to the UNESCO listed Keoladeo Ghana National Park in Bharatpur, where a thriving system of fresh water marshes attracts large and diverse range of migratory birds.  

We fly down south to Kochi . Kochi is a port, trading hub and historical crossroads that has attracted missionaries to travellers over the course of the centuries, and holds many influences. We will be staying in a homestay at Fort Kochi. This is laid back place, great for wandering around and leisurely, independent exploration – with its churches, galleries, synagogue, cafes, boutiques, Chinese fishing nets and faded colonial feel.  

We head to northern Kerala and the coast for a couple of days by an unspoilt and peaceful beach. Time to kick back and enjoy famous Malabari cuisine, walk the beach, spot kingfishers and herons, in a region known for colourful theyyam possession rituals that take place at the village temples.  

We head up into the hills to the Kodagu region, a region of coffee and spice plantations. Vivid greens, wildlife, waterfalls, walks and wholesome food mark our next few days. We stay with on an organic coffee plantation. Knowledgeable staff host us on a plantation tour – complete with explanations on ecology and species. There is also time for guided walks further afield, reading and generally just getting back to nature.   

This quiet, understated and princely former royal capital is home to ashtanga yoga, sandalwood, incense, silk and flower markets. Delicious South Indian cuisine, the bustle of Devraja market and the garish splendour of the Maharaja’s place are all jewels in Mysuru’s crown. A cycle tour to a local village and an evening food tour are included.  

Late morning, we will catch the train to Bangalore, India’s IT capital, three hours away. With beautiful parks, craft breweries and a range of restaurants there is plenty to fill an afternoon/evening before we fly to Varanasi the following morning.  

We fly to Varanasi today. Crumbling, chaotic and sublime, Varanasi is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. A spiritual hub of ancient rites; a traditional seat of culture but also home to children postcard sellers, tours, goats in t-shirts and holy men. Babas, backpackers, merchants and pilgrims surge through the lanes of the old town, which spill out onto the relief of the river banks. The broad panoramic sweep of the Ganges, with the ghats and city rising up from the Western banks is something to behold. Being there is the experience.

A range of experiences are on offer, from an early morning boat ride to an evening prayer ceremony, walks with local guides to early morning music concerts. And there is plenty of time to enjoy the hotel, talk to other travellers and explore. 

India’s rail network is the fourth largest in the world, and it moves millions of people around the subcontinent every year – for leisure, pilgrimage and business. It is not only a comfortable way to travel but a fantastic way to see India. We will travel second class sleeper to Delhi and arrive in the morning. We will have a picnic dinner to take with us.

Night 22 Delhi

We arrive in Delhi in the morning and have the day to do last minute shopping and so on. There is room for a variety of activities as well